By Stewart Noland, Ozark Society Archive Chair
Having turned down two opportunities to go to Big Bend in the mid-1970’s, saying at the time I could go later, I finally made my first visit to Big Bend with hiking and paddling friend Marcell Jones in early December 2021. Big Bend is an 801,000-acre national park located in southwest Texas, that was designated a national park in 1944. The southern border of the park is formed by the Rio Grande River and the border with Mexico. Elevations in the park range from about 2000 feet at the river to over 7800 feet at Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains.
Big Bend is an approximate 14-hour drive from central Arkansas. We chose to stay in the Chisos Mountain Lodge in the middle of the park, and we were glad we did as it minimized our driving times and put us close to the hiking that we wanted to do. There also is a campground in the Chisos Basin that provides the same conveniences.
The Chisos Mountains are located in the middle of the park, and create the circular Island in the Sky effect. The Chisos Mountains support a wide variety of vegetation and animals including sheep, bears, Sierra del Carmen deer, and javelinas. We were fortunate to see all of these animals.
On our arrival day we hiked the Lost Mine Trail. Day 2 we took a car tour to the downstream end of the park. From there we hiked the Boquillas Canyon Trail and a portion of the Marufo Vega Trail before visiting the hot springs near Rio Grande Village. Day 3 we hiked the South Rim Trail, gaining over 2,000 feet in elevation. Day 4 we were back on the road visiting the upstream end of the park, including Cattail Falls, Burro Mesa, Mule Ears, Santa Elena Canyon Trail, Terlingua, and Lajitas. Day 5 we were back in the Chisos hiking the Window Trail and a portion of the South Rim Trail. Day 6 we headed home.
Big Bend is a hiker and backpacker haven. We met folks from more states than you can imagine. Although the Rio Grande was way too low for a river trip, which we were prepared for and wanted to do, we enjoyed the trip and were fascinated with the Chisos Mountains.