Pack & Paddle

By Fred Paillet, Ozark Society Education Chair Many naturalists throughout the range of the eastern deciduous forest biome have wondered what the undisturbed forest experienced by the first colonists in North America might have looked like. This question is closely tied to the desire by many ranging from the likes of Henry Thoreau to modern landscape architects to have the spiritual experience of the “forest primeval”. Sort of like returning to the Creator’s Garden of Eden. It would seem that all one needs to do is nothing – just let nature take its course and the forest will recover according to nature’s own plan. It has been more than a century since many parts of the Ozark plateau have been logged. To the consternation of ecologists nothing like a return to the admittedly poorly-documented pre-settlement forests seems to be happening. How do we even know what the pre-settlement forests were like? The best measurable answer comes from the original land office survey of ranges and townships starting from the famous Louisiana Purchase benchmark (tri-point intersection of Lee, Monroe, and Phillips Counties, Arkansas). Townships were marked by corners identified by witness trees. Surveyors recognized that corner markers might not remain [...]

By Kris McMillen, NEW Buffalo River Chapter Chair I wanted to introduce myself.  I have agreed to be Chairman of the Buffalo River Chapter—taking over from Laura Timby, who I understand has had this position for some 20 years—doing a fantastic job and for which I’m sure everyone is most grateful.  A big THANK YOU and best wishes to Laura in any new endeavors. Here’s a photo of me and my husband, Billy (I’m the one on the right!!) since we are sort of a matched set being married for over 50 years.  We are hikers and bicyclists.  We are originally from Texarkana. We have moved around in our lives with work and had a home in Hot Springs Village for 14 years after retiring.  We lived on the road in our fifth wheel camper for 8 years before moving to Gassville, AR just outside Mountain Home. We had always wanted to live in the Ozarks and now we are here and love it!  We still travel in the summer and fall months-hiking, and bicycling Rails to Trails all over the country. We belonged to the Ozark Society many years ago and used to go on the Colorado trips.  [...]

By Steve Heye, Pulaski Chapter Outings Chair Last year’s Ozark Society trip to the John Muir Trail and Mt. Whitney was a success for all but Robert Ordeneaux and trip leader, Steve Heye. Steve had to pull out when a case of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever took over. Steve, however is determined to make it to the top of Whitney this summer. He is looking for two others to join him on the backpack adventure. Steve has procured permits for three to hike the Sierra’s around Whitney. He has a permit for sure to hike August 21 to August 26 from the Cottonwood Pass campground, using the Pacific Crest trail to the John Muir trail and on to Whitney Portal. 35 miles total over 6 days. That’s only 6 miles a day on average, so this means time to enjoy the area from camp. Steve has another line running for a permit to hike Whitney. He has entered a lottery that would allow the group of 3 to hike directly from Whitney Portal up to the top and back to the Portal over 3 or 4 days. Should Steve win the Lottery, this will be the itinerary for the [...]

By Stewart Noland, Ozark Society Archive Chair Having turned down two opportunities to go to Big Bend in the mid-1970’s, saying at the time I could go later, I finally made my first visit to Big Bend with hiking and paddling friend Marcell Jones in early December 2021. Big Bend is an 801,000-acre national park located in southwest Texas, that was designated a national park in 1944. The southern border of the park is formed by the Rio Grande River and the border with Mexico. Elevations in the park range from about 2000 feet at the river to over 7800 feet at Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains. Big Bend is an approximate 14-hour drive from central Arkansas. We chose to stay in the Chisos Mountain Lodge in the middle of the park, and we were glad we did as it minimized our driving times and put us close to the hiking that we wanted to do. There also is a campground in the Chisos Basin that provides the same conveniences. The Chisos Mountains are located in the middle of the park, and create the circular Island in the Sky effect. The Chisos Mountains support a wide variety of [...]

By Dr. Joe Nix, Ozark Society Founding Member It’s been 50 years!  Hard to believe that so much has changed.  I can’t help thinking about the large number of people who worked tirelessly to ensure some long-term security to the Buffalo.  Of course, Neil Compton led the charge. Harold Alexander provided a philosophical basis for protecting natural areas and free flowing streams.  Harold and Margaret Hedges lived it.  They carved out a place near Boxley which was a center for the movements.  Margaret kept a journal but it was lost in a fire that destroyed their home.  Joe and Maxine Clark served as editors of the “Ozark Society Bulletin” which held that organization together.  John Houston was a journalist who ultimately lost his job because he supported BNR.  Jane Stern provided strong support for saving the Buffalo in the Pine Bluff and Little Rock areas.  Ed and June Freeman were owners of the “Pine Bluff Commercial” which provided strong support for BNR through the writings of one of their reporters, Harry Pearson. Everett Bowman worked to help build support for BNR in the Little Rock area.  Hubert and Mary Virginia Ferguson were very active in support of BNR and [...]

By Ozark Society LIFE member, Jim Liles Alice Andrews, an artist and native of El Dorado, Arkansas, fell in love with Boxley Valley, on upper Buffalo River, more than thirty years ago. In the late 1980s she visited the offices of Buffalo National River, inquiring about the possibility of acquiring land in Boxley Valley. She wanted to know if she might be able to purchase a small parcel where she could build and settle there. We explained the complicated situation in Boxley, where the resolution of issues surrounding land ownership was still in the works. By that time the National Park Service (NPS) had “turned the corner” in the management of Boxley Valley, determining that - after much consultation - the valley, with its multiplicity of historic (and prehistoric) assets, was on the wrong path to the future. Despite Congressional intent to leave Boxley as a “Private Use Zone,” many farms and homes had been acquired by “the government” during the land-buying years, 1972 – 1982. Only a half-dozen occupied homes in the valley were not in federal ownership. Several of the homes acquired by the NPS stood vacant and neglected, their former owners having sold out and moved [...]

By OS Climate Committee - Jennifer Ailor, chair, Steve Boss, Brian Thompson, Alice Andrews, and David Peterson Climate Change is Here and Now The science is undeniable. Climate change is real, and its impacts are all around us. While in the Ozarks may not see the rapid extremes taking place at the Poles, changes in our region are in play nevertheless. Accordingly, the Ozark Society, as a guardian of the Buffalo River ecosystem, has taken a position on climate change as it affects the national river and park and the greater Ozarks region in the Ozark Society’s respective states. Our Statement The Ozark Society urges all who float, fish, hike, ride, hunt, recreate and farm in the Buffalo River watershed to be aware of the scientific consensus about climate change. Citizens also should be mindful of potential climate change impacts on our beloved river and the greater Ozarks Plateau. Among the potential impacts of concern are changing weather patterns, including floods and droughts, that could affect regional hydrologic balance to: Change forest ecosystems Increase influence of non-native, invasive species Alter pollinator populations for area crops, pastures, gardens and wildflowers Increase erosion and wash out riverside campsites Increase nuisance algae [...]