Tales From the Trail: Arkansas History and the Athens-Big Fork Part 2

CORRECTION REGARDING ORIGINS OF THE ABF TRAIL
In the first installment of this article last month, I stated my opinion that at least parts of the ABF are 400-600 years old, based on presence of Caddo Indian quarries on the Trail. Since that time, I have corresponded with Dr. Laura Donaldson (Archeologist for the U.S. Forest Service), and it seems my estimate was a bit off. According to Dr. Donaldson, results of comparative studies and carbon dating show early Native Americans were using the south end of the Trail to hunt and gather by at least 6,000 BC. That means at least that part of the ABF is 8,000 years old or more! Dr. Donaldson also reported there is evidence of short-term camps and longer-term settlements for centuries, all along and near the Trail. Furthermore, she believes the general route of the Trail has changed very little over time, and that some sections follow the ancient trail bed exactly. So when one is on the ABF, there are places where you are literally following in the footsteps of the Ancients.

Outlaws and Local Folklore

      Many have probably heard the story of Albert Pike and his buried gold. An interesting finding from our research was local stories that told of Jesse James and other outlaws (such as Belle Starr) traversing the ABF. The following describes what we were able to learn about the notorious Mr. James and the ABF. (There are numerous Jesse James stories in Arkansas, but this one is at least plausible.)

     In 1874, a Judge (Thomas Isaac Mills) lived in Howard County. He had six sons, several of whom did not grow to be as fond of the law as did their father. Indeed, records show that one of the sons (Thomas J. Mills) had multiple arrests for larceny, assault, mail robbery, and other offenses. He was also said to have been friendly with Jesse James, and that James had visited at Mills’ home at least once. In February of 1874, James and his friends pulled their first stagecoach heist, robbing the coach that carried travelers from Malvern (who arrived there by railroad) to Hot Springs. After the robbery, James and his friends reportedly spent the night at Rock Cave on the Caddo River. At the time, the main road from Dallas to Hot Springs was called Long’s Trail, a mostly under-developed road named after explorer Stephen Long. It ran just north of Big Fork. Being a wanted man, James and his cohorts would likely have wanted to avoid this well-traveled path, which was just above where portions of Hwy 8 now run. If he was indeed friendly with Thomas Mills, then it is no stretch of the imagination to believe that James could have ridden a little south of Long’s Trail (thus maintaining a low profile), traversed at least the southern leg of the ABF Trail, moving on in the general direction of what is now Albert Pike Recreational Area, and on to their rendezvous with the stagecoach. This is an intriguing and distinct possibility, but we found no definitive evidence events actually occurred that way.

But What about the ABF as an old Post Office trail?

     These unanticipated findings discussed so far are interesting, but David and I were keen to our original satisfy our original quest:  To learn when the Post Office used the ABF to deliver mail. We found records and photos of several Post Offices in Howard, Polk, and Pike Counties. Launa Simmons (a Langley resident who owns the property and gymnasium of the old Langley School on Hwy. 84) told us of her great-uncle, Simeon Austin, who carried mail on horseback in the late 1800s. His route ran from Star of the West to the north (and just east of what is now Albert Pike Recreational Area), then on to Black Springs. He 

would spend the night there, then return home the next day. He rode this route three times a week. We found an 1883 map of rural mail routes in western Arkansas that showed the route Simeon rode, but no Athens- Big Fork route. We found a similar 1887 map but, again, no Athens-Big Fork route. We discovered that the Post Office in Big Fork was established in 1854, while the Post Office in Athens was not established until 1897. (That Post Office was originally called Venetian Grove; the name was changed to Athens in 1901.) Still, though, no indication of a route between Athens and Big Fork. Finally, we wrote to Jennifer Lynch, Historian for the U.S. Postal Service, requesting information about dates for when the Post Office delivered mail on the ABF Trail. Her response was both surprising and disappointing: There has never been an official U.S. Mail route between Athens and Big Fork!!

     David and I wondered how it was possible that the collective local folklore about mail delivery on the ABF could be so wrong. Well, hints of a possible answer came to light less than a week after hearing from Ms. Lynch. We found three entries in the U.S. Geological Survey of 1907 (published in 1910) that offered clues. The entries were made by J. R. Ellis, and included longitude/latitude references. One surveyed point is described in Mr. Ellis’ entry as “Athens, two miles northwest of; near the old mail trail”. On Google Maps, this point is on the east shoulder of Hwy 246, just a short distance from the ABF south trailhead. Two other entries refer to surveyed points located on Forest Rd. 38, which runs north from Shady Lake Campground. One of those points is at the side road that leads to Tall Peak. The other entry is a little farther north on FR 38, just below the Buckeye trailhead. Both of these positions are described as “near the old mail route”. In using these references to old mail trail and mail routes, is it possible that Mr. Ellis was inadvertently perpetuating the mistaken folklore about mail delivery on the ABF? Or do these entries indeed point to some type of unofficial (voluntary) system of mail delivery between the two communities? I’m hopeful it proves to be the latter, but the mystery may not be resolved without some type of genealogical record or reference.

  Resurrection and New Life for the ABF

      My other point of inquiry was to discern when our Bayou Chapter worked on the ABF Trail. The answer is 1986-87. At that time, my cohort (David) was a Ranger in the Caddo-Womble District. The Forest Service was pushing National Forest Superintendents to expand opportunities for the general public to access forest lands for recreation. There were almost no hiking trails within Ouachita National Forest then, but David recalled hearing locals mention an old “mail trail”. So, he had his crew search for and flag this infrequently used trail, and planned for its restoration. As David recalls, the current Trail follows almost exactly the older path they found, with the exception of two-three mile of new construction at the northern most end of the Trail. Restoration on the lower leg of the ABF (south trailhead to Blaylock Creek) was finished in 1987. The majority of the work was done by volunteers from the Bayou Chapter, with some help from student volunteers during summer months.       

     The Bayou Chapter has maintained the ABF lower leg since restoration was completed. (Tim Ernst provided supervision for construction of most of the Little Missouri Falls Trail, but David could not recall who provided supervision for the Bayou Chapter’s efforts.) For several years after work was completed, the lower section of the ABF was rarely used. In fact, it was used so little the overgrowth was bad enough to require maintenance twice yearly. It was common to hike that lower leg and not encounter anyone other than our BCOS group. But that changed dramatically with completion of the Eagle Rock Loop. On my last visit to the ABF, I encountered 17 people on my way from the parking area by Blaylock Creek to the top of Brush Heap Mountain! 

The popularity of the ABF/Eagle Rock Loop continues to grow, as its reputation as a hiking destination spreads throughout the mid-South region of the U.S. In addition, the annual ABF Trail Marathon (first run on January 2, 1999) has introduced a different class of ABF patrons: trail runners. These folks enjoy their outdoor adventure most when they’re moving fast! As we have seen with hiking and backpacking on the ABF/Eagle Rock Loop, the marathon is becoming a major draw for regional runners as a challenging race some say is as difficult as the Pike’s Peak Marathon, due to the cumulative elevation gains and rugged terrain. (And the person who founded the ABF Marathon is none other than my co-researcher, David Samuel!)

    I began this journey on a quest to answer two simple questions. It was my good fortune that Life took me the long way around on a much more interesting and immensely rewarding ride than I had imagined. The ABF has been direct witness to examples of cultural, economic, and social trends/influences that helped shape the history of the entire west Central Arkansas area. It is both a literal and figurative passageway through time, and reflects how inhabitants in this part of the State have worked, lived, and played for thousands of years. My personal connection to the Trail is now so much more intimate than at the time of that first cold November introduction, and my respect for its beauty and quiet dignity so much more enriched. I’m grateful for the journey, the lessons learned, and new friends found along the way.